surf-matic

waves, culture, aphorisms

urgent: best women’s surf film

Monyca from Maui smiles and charges in Nike's "Leave a Message"

My hat goes off to Nike for putting together “Leave a Message,” one of the best sport films I’ve seen in a while. It features 6 up-and-coming women surfers, and they rip. The surfing is incredibly progressive, the music is fun, and everything is beautiful.

The lineup includes:
Monyca Byrne-Wickey from Hana, Hawaii
Malia Manuel from Wailua, Hawaii
Lakey Peterson from Santa Barbara, California
Laura Enever from North Narrabeen, Australia
Coco Ho from Sunset Beach, Hawaii
Carissa Moore from Honolulu, Hawaii

I love to see so many Hawaiians on the list– and even a girl from Maui!

Check out the film at the bottom of the page here.

Intervals vs 10,000 hours? A look at windsurf training

Obviously there are no set rules to training. There is an unproven though generally accepted rule that it takes 10,000 hours to reach a level of mastery in any endeavor, be it sport or art. 10,000 hours (a number garnered from rigorous statistical study of masters) is about 3 hours of practice a day for 10 years– a lot of time! The logic is simple enough; the body and mind must reach a critical point of practice time before they can truly do something spontaneously and in the moment. It is at this point that improvisation is as good as or even better than practiced routine.

This all seems true; however, the 4 years I spent away from Maui were the best years for my windsurfing ever– and they were also the years that I sailed the least. I would spend about a week on the water in the fall, a couple weeks in the winter, another week in the spring, and a solid 2-3 months in the summer. I think anyone would agree that a total of around 4 months training (1/3 of the year) is not nearly enough for one aspiring to athletic greatness in any sport (or career of any kind). Yet in those 4 years, I improved at a much quicker rate than ever before.

Backdooring the lip at jaws

I have a few guesses at the explanation behind these rapid improvements:

1) Without windsurfing every day for extended periods of time, I had no bad habits because there wasn’t any time for habits to form. Therefore, everything was always fresh.

2) With very limited time to be on the water. Every second had to count and I had to have as many seconds as possible, meaning that when I was on the water I would stay on the water and go all out. There was no time not to charge.

3) In my time at school, I trained my body and mind really hard so that when I was windsurfing, I was physically and mentally incredibly fit. Windsurfing every day would have detracted from both.

Looking back over Peahi

These short intense bursts highly resemble interval training. And it is no coincidence that recent sport science seems to say that interval training may be more effective for progress. But they say nothing of mastery…

What then of the 10,000 hours? I don’t know. All I do know is that out of the last 12 years, the last 4 had the least windsurfing, and yet they were the most productive. I became incredibly consistent on my takes (possibly the most consistent in the world for starboard tack waves) and even managed to win the Expression Session at the 2009 Cabo Verde World Cup with one of these takas. I had a few off-the-lips at Jaws– one of them even turning into a back loop off the lip (a first in the world, I think).

Going for the back loop at Jaws

The coming four years will be full of windsurfing for me, but I will not be afraid– in fact I will relish– breaks for something different, be it writing, painting, or just traveling.

A hookipa taka done my own way. Captured by Jimmie Hepp

Video with some highlights from last fall and this spring (only a total of 3 weeks for filming!):

Maui Son: Graham Ezzy from umi pictures on Vimeo.

dog rides shark

nuff said

this is beautiful

I love when skateboarders interpret the urban environment and use it to express themselves. It is a true release of creativity. A form of surfing where you must form the wave in the mind before riding it. It becomes a way of turning the cold concrete back into something human.

News, Royalty, and Spray

The sport news site Daily House is live! The website will feature interesting news from a host of sports, and the extreme section should be stocked full of interesting and exciting films, interviews, and stories.

Yesterday, I mentioned Surfline’s article on the new ASP and the need for the “Dream Tour”. If you haven’t read it yet, read it here. Anyone interested in competitive surfing or windsurfing needs to read this asap.

Check out Maui Son on Dakine.

Remember to follow me on twitter.

Below is a photo from my windsurfing session yesterday on the 5.0 green Ezzy Panther Ltd and a windsurfing prince. Guess which is which.

Sliding out on the cutback!


Isn't that boom too high and the shorts too short?

On the Oregon Trail: a Critical Look at the AWT Pistol River

At the start of June, I left warm-but-flat Maui for the cold waves of Pistol River, Oregon and the AWT competition there. Everyone bitches about the cold water, but the thick wetsuit rubber bothers me more than the cold water (the water is just an incentive not to fall!), so I prefer a thinner wetsuit with more movability. And after my winter trip to Japan where I was sailing without boots or gloves in the snow (yes, snow!), I think most of the nerves in my feet are dead and therefore aren’t annoyed when the water is less than tropical. Anyway, I had a 3/2 that worked perfectly well for the water, and I was loving it the couple days before the contest when we had solid logo-high waves and decent 4.2 wind. During those days, I was on my game with some sick in-the-pocket takas, backside 3s, and even a few of the elusive frontside 3’s in the onshore mush. The actual event was interesting but less full of fun moves, and made me think critically about the future of competitive windsurfing. Here is an insight and overview:

Big Backloop in the wind

The conditions during the actual contest were a different story. For most of the event, the waves were less than chest high and the wind was between 4.5 and 5.0. This was fine though. I blew it in the single elimination by taking too small of a sail in my second heat (over optimistic about the wind!). Losing early always sucks, but it fired me up for the double elimination.

When the double started, I made sure not to make the same mistake– I was sure to be at least over-powered for my heats. This strategy paid off and I was able to pull multiple takas in each heat along with some slashy turns and pushloops (my contest jump of choice on starboard tack). There was a surprisingly high level of competition, and there were no easy heats. I fought back through what seemed like 10 rounds (though it was probably fewer). The heats blur together until the quarter final.

Backside hit on the 4.7 Ezzy Panther Ltd

The quarter final marked a change in the conditions; the wind started to get light, really light. I was on my 5.0 and bigger board (a custom quatro fish around 85 liters). The heat consisted of Kevin Pritchard, Josh Stone, Tyson Poor, and me. With such dismal conditions, I thought that head judge Matt Pritchard was going to cancel for the day with plans to resume two days later (the final day in the contest window) when the forecast was looking to be excellent. But no, the show went on. On the water, I struggled even to plane. I managed to pump into a decent pushloop and a forward (I thought they were counting 2 jumps but it was only 1). For my waves, I caught some of the sets and managed to carve some turns and bust a taka (my secret contest weapon it seems). I was focusing on myself and therefore didn’t have a chance to really watch the other guys on the water. I know that Kevin had some pretty decent jumps and good waves and I think Tyson struggled a bit in the super light wind (I still think the heat should have been postponed). In the end, even though I didn’t think I would get through, Josh Stone and I passed into the next round.

The next heat was a three man heat (Josh Stone, Boujmaa Guilloul, and I) where only one of us was going to advance to fight against Nathan Mershon in the double elimination final. I thought that the conditions in the previous heat were bad, but these conditions were even worse. I was a bit bummed out that I weighed 40lbs more than either of the other two competitors as the wind began to sink below sailable and the sun sank too– the light dwindling into dusk. I voiced to the judges that I thought we should wait till the good conditions coming in two days (after all, we already had a result from the single elimination, so there was not such a risk if the conditions never materialized [plus, anything would have been better than the crap that was there]). Yet, we sailed.

I borrowed Kevin Pritchard’s 5.8 and went out on my quatro quad. Honestly, it sucked. I pumped into a forward and had one good wave, but then became flustered and frustrated with the conditions and couldn’t find another good wave. At this point, the heat was about competing, not about windsurfing. The actual level of the windsurfing was secondary to the competition, so the contest could have been about anything. I ended up 4th in the event, which is better than last, but I would have liked a better conditions to stage my performance.

Taka in front of the rocks on new 4.5 Panther Ltd

Taka in front of the rocks

This is bad, I think. The problem with windsurfing comps in the past is that they have focused on competing rather than windsurfing. I pumped up the AWT in Windsurfing Mag for having a tour that focused on good conditions even if the prize money was not present. That was not the case here. Take the worst Euro contest, make it starboard tack, take away the prize money, and that’s what we had for the last 4 heats of the AWT Pistol River. As a true windsurfingphile, I was a bit disappointed. I have no intentions to retract what I previously praised about the AWT, but as a new and growing tour, it will be nice to see the AWT learn how to spotlight the sport properly (read: good conditions equals good/progressive performance) while having a meaningful competition that can excite windsurfers around the world. For the sport to grow, windsurfers need to innovate, and for that to happen, we need good conditions.

On a meaningful side note, the ASP (the surfing world tour) is going through a problem similar to the one that windsurfing went through in the late nineties till now. The sponsors are pushing events (Rio, NYC, etc) in locations for the money and spectacle rather than the actual surfing– recipe for a decadent disaster. Surfline has a good article on it here. If surfing can learn anything from windsurfing, they will steer away from this current trend and push back to the classic spots of old (read Fiji, Tahiti, etc).

Backside 360 in the heat on a new green Panther Ltd

At the end of the day, for our sport to grow, we need to focus our energy on the sport itself and not any of the peripheral BS. Windsurfing is one of (if not THE) most radical sport on the water (and land?). We don’t have to package it for it to be sold. The equation is simple: good conditions + good riders= good competitions. The AWT is a start and I’m excited to see where it goes.

And here are some pics from the event:

Taka!


Pushloop on a Panther!


Another taka!

I’m back!

I’m back on the blog after a hiatus during which I finished my 4 years at Princeton. Now it’s onward into the world!

In that same time, umi, the feverous windsurfing media powerhouse, made a short portrait film on me aptly titled “Maui Son”. Filming for the clip in the middle of my senior year at Princeton proved tough. You can read the making-of story here: http://www.umipictures.com/2011/05/maui-son-graham-ezzy/ . And below is the film itself.

At this very moment, I’m sitting in Portland Airport (PDX) waiting for a friend to arrive. When he gets in, we start our 6 hour drive down to Gold Beach for the AWT’s Pistol River wave contest. I don’t even remember the last real competition I had that was starboard tack wavesailing. I’m amped to finally have an event that favors my regular footing. I’ll keep updating as the trip and contest progress.

G!

Twitter and Maui!

I finally have a twitter at http://twitter.com/#!/grahamezzy . And in 3 hours I start my journey back to Maui were I’ll meet up with the ezzy team and the umi team to do some sailing with Kevin Pritchard, Kauli, and Brendan. The forecast is calling for it to be windy, so expect some jumps! And here is a windsurf photo that is completely unrelated:

Matt wins Innersection

My friend from Maui, Matt Meola, just won 100k for this clip; so sick!

A few things from the last month

First, the snow on the east coast was insane:

Snow covered board!

Why is this not all over the web? I get back to Maui in 12 days; I can’t wait to start trying them!

And this is a tiny apple.

That’s all.