surf-matic

This one is probably the most important survival rule for dealing with the sea, and, of course, can be extrapolated to life. I’ve seen countless tourists standing in the shorebreak at Ho’okipa with their backs to the water; every time a wave broke, they would get smashed into the hard sand. And even though they were constantly thrown down, they never realized that they could avoid being flattened simply by facing the waves, observing the tempo of the shorebreak, and dancing with it.

never turn your back on the ocean