surfism vol. 3
by Graham
When water rushes into a bay, it must also leave the bay, otherwise there would be a pool of infinite water! And frankly, that makes no sense at all. So the water leaves the bay at a rate (gallons/minute) similar to the rate it entered. When the waves get bigger and more water comes into the bay, this rate increases, resulting in a stronger current. Anyway, it is imperative that the water leaves the bay, so the H2O exits by flowing around the edges and exiting out the sides. For example, at Hookipa, to the right of the sandy beach, the current flows to right, along the coast and out to the edge of the bay. And to the left of the beach, the current flows to the to the left, around the rocks, and out the channel.
So here is the surfism:
when water comes in, it must also go out.
Meaning, among other things, that where lots of water comes in, there will always be a large channel. And strong current flows along the edges of a Bay.
It’s so karmic. Each action being a logical consequence of the previous action. So simple.